Canning Stock Route , 1992

Canning Stock Route Trip 1992

The 1992  Gunbarrel highway , Tanami track and Canning Stock Route  trip .

Members - Don Boucaut and Rick Waters in Don's 1985 Pajero Wagon , 2.6 litre petrol ; and Steve Mitchell and his father John in Steve's 1985 FJ60 Landcruiser.

Trip took place 30/07/1992 to 21/08/92 , total distance 6942 kms (Pajero) , fuel use in Pajero was 1079.5 litres ,  15.5 litres/100km.

Trip took place several months after good rainfall - as evidenced by a good bloom of wildflowers , and a healthy crop of Spinifex .

No special preparations were made to the vehicles , standard suspension & tyres (A/T) type , both had bullbars & roofracks.Extra fuel was carried inside in Jerry cans - 10 in the Toyota and 11 in the Pajero  (the writer gave up smoking for whole of trip - and regretted that rash decision ) as well as the fuel drop we had arranged from Capricorn roadhouse at well #23 . Three extra tyres and one spare rim were carried by each vehicle , and I carried a full spare spring pack for the Pajero. Other supplies were Engel fridge , water , food , beer and spares. Maps were the R.A.C for Gunbarrel & CSR , both excellent and Steve arranged the permits for entry .  We hired a RFDS radio from Bunbury for our communication to home & in case of emergency (8 whisky echo lima was the call sign) this worked great , we had 27 mhz USB CB radio in each vehicle - I was disappointed in their performance - it may have been something due to us only operating on AM !

Day 1      Thursday 30/07/1992 .

         Left home in Pinjarra at 05:40 hrs , my wife (Brenda)  looks a bit sad , and me too , will miss her & the kids (Terry , Sharyn & Melissa ) whilst I am away . Arrived at Ricks place 06:05 hrs (near Mandurah) , Steve & John already there , and left 5 minutes later .(we had prepacked Pajero a few days before ).We tested CB radios but got heaps of feedback on USB , so changed to AM and worked okay ….and away we went towards Perth via Nth Dandalup in the morning gloom , all very excited . Went through Armadale and onto Roe highway and then to Great Northern Highway , making good time , plenty of talk on CB , and some smug looks at other vehicles - people heading off to work … I can be a bit of a mongrel sometimes.

Stopped for  bacon and eggs at Walebing , Rick nearly left his well shaped hat behind , then got caught behind a couple of floats with Haul-Pack trucks on the back … got called through over CB's by escort .Nice wildflowers from Paynes find onwards .

We arrived in Mt Magnet at 14:30 hrs , filled Pajero with petrol , then left …. The highway was under repair between Magnet and Cue , a couple of detours  , arrived in Meekatharra at 17:30 hrs , took on 243 litres of Petrol in Pajero (inc Jerry cans) at $204 - remember this was 1992 !! Thankfully Rick paid for this lot .

 Rang Brenda , she sounded happy which cheered me a bit , bought a carton of beer and set up camp west of Meekatharra and camped for night.  

Day 2    Friday 31/07/1992 .

         Broke camp at 08:40 - crew does not look too bright this morning , went into Meekatharra and disposed of last nights rubbish , went to RFDS base and registered for Rad phone connection , operator advised us to use Pt Headland base from north of well 23 , and Meekatharra south of that .Left Meekatharra at 09:10 for Wiluna - a good road saw us get to that town in 2.5 hrs , went to police station and filled in travellers book for Gunbarrel , town looks the same as last time I went through  .

 In Wiluna

 Did a bog lap around town , then left on Gunbarrel highway , stopped and had lunch 16 kms out from Wiluna .

Brenda had sent me with a corned beef roast and chocolate cake  , nice sandwich from the roast , and cake afterwards - very nice . The roast incidentally lasted all the way to Alice Springs - with all four of us making meals from it !

 Lots of water over the road in two places , not boggy though , so no problems . Road has been built up by mining company above surrounding ground level , and several 'B' trains hauling ore .

Made camp 132 kms east of Wiluna at 16:00 hrs , settled into a nice T bone and a few beers . Weather has been fine - some clouds gathering , about 15'c .

Day 3     Saturday 01/08/1992

         Rain got us out of the swags at 05:00 hrs , it stopped soon afterwards . Broke camp at 07:35 hrs after breakfast , came upon some old mine shafts (shallow) a few kms down the road , nice piece of country with wildflowers and even some Sturts desert pea .

Had lunch on track beside a dry clay pan that was covered in a blanket of  tiny blue/purple flowers - from a distance looked like blue water . Passed by Harry Johnston Water , which looks a likely spot to camp , proceeded onto Carnegie homestead , rang Brenda from phone box there , she sounded good . Did not need fuel from Carnegie and left shortly after , and got our first taste of bad corrugations - lost a driving light here .

Made camp 71 km east of Carnegie hsd , had marinated steak for tea - not bad eh ? Transferred some fuel from Jerry cans to tank. Have not seen another vehicle since we went past Prenti Downs hsd turnoff.

Day 4    Sunday 02/08/1992

Broke camp 06:55 hrs - had some light rain overnight - slept okay with swag pulled over. Track badly corrugated for first 60 kms . Came upon a cleared footy oval - complete with goal posts & 'members stand' (old car body) .

Proceeded on and just past 'Eagle road' the road disappeared into flooded  lake - "Mungilli claypan" , so we had to take the detour around to the south , was a bit puzzled cause there appeared to be push bike tracks in front .  Went past the 'Geraldton Historical society bore' and shortly after caught up with a bloke on a pushbike , bare chested and thirsty . He is riding his bike across the Gunbarrel , but his support vehicle broke down so naturally he proceeded on without it ! Gave him some water etc ,  he was pretty happy to see us , he is sponsored by  Australian Geographic for $500 , but his camera is broken , so we took it with us & arranged for repair in Alice & him to pick up.

Had lunch at Everard Junction - blowing a gale , then moved onto Mt Beadell & drove to the top - a fine view from up there .  Made camp under lea of Mt Beadell , Steve found a mess in the back of his Cruiser - oil container split , milk container split and beer cans holed and eggs broken  . I had some beer cans holed as well ….

 Had pork chops and noodles for tea - pretty good , a fair few beers & then the rain came down . So there we were - all half cut & putting a tarp up in the dark with a strong wind …. In the cold light of day it did not look very professional . Went to sleep with lightning to east and north .

Day 5    Monday 03/08/1992

         Woke up to bright sunlight and flies , and sore head. Transferred more fuel to tank and listened to RFDS roll call, and weather - raining behind us & roads being closed  - then made my first Rad phone call to Brenda - good to speak to her and she handled the protocol very well.

Did some checks on cars - I had to tighten a tie rod & Steve had a battery terminal shorting on bonnet - all fixed. Broke camp 08:00 hrs, stopped at camp Beadell (under new management) and Lynette's bore - some mongrel had stolen the wire, then saw our first camel of the trip - you just gotta love them out here . Next stop was Beadells tree, but we would have to visit someone's shed to view his plaque !

Got to the junction of Gunbarrel and Heather highways at 11:00 hrs, and proceeded onto the "abandoned section of the gunbarrel". Went up to Mt Samuel trig point - a good view from here, and checked out some Gnama holes. Had lunch west of Todd range, and back into the corrugations and washouts (detours here) .

Arrived Jackie Junction at 15:00 hrs, where we saw a work colleagues name scratched into a sign there, wait till I get to work & see that vandal ! From Jackie Jn the track had been graded as it travels to an Aboriginal location - I think the 'Scutterbutts' , anyway we hit 5th  gear for the first time in days - although the track is soft in places . Came upon a five tonne truck full of locals, they had a flat tyre so we stopped and made sure they were okay, then got going again and made camp 91 km east of Jackie Jn - and covered our tracks so we wouldn't be disturbed, cooked on gas stove so wood smoke would not betray our position - real commandos aren't we? Truck came past a few hours later. .

RFDS was load and clear from Meekatharra , put our watches forward 1.5 hrs , had marinated steak , chips and onions , added two more Jerry cans to tank - have five left. Early night - 19:30 hrs.

Day 6         Tuesday   04/08/1992

        Tuned to RFDS Alice Springs, apparently some rain in Giles last night  , broke camp 08:15 central time , the good road swung north after one km , we proceeded on Gunbarrel - now a two rut track across Spinifex plains  , and came across two couples from Albany camped up - said hello , and off again . Some sandhills in this section , and some mud and water across track , vehicles looking a little shabby now - and us too I suppose.

Had lunch near Rawlinson range - looks good to see some hills after so much featureless land . Came onto Warburton Rd (Great Central Road) and then into Giles and checked out the weather station - the blokes inside even gave us a tour, showed us Len Beadells drawings on internal walls.

While there a group of special people , with their carers came in for a look , take my hat off to all these did not have to get fuel here , there is a 'new' roadhouse just down the track - Warrakuna  !

We fuelled up there , I tried to phone Brenda , but she is out. Disposed of our rubbish at tip and left , made camp on banks of Rebecca creek near Sandy Blight Jn - a couple of kms off road. Nice campsite with views of ranges and bigger trees , dingos howling in distance .

Tuned into RFDS Port Augusta , Rick and Steve cracked the Port open , I was content with a few icy cold beers … it doesn't get much better than this .  A dingo came into camp , got rifle out in case it was needed.

Day 7     Wednesday 0/08/1992

         Overcast morning - some light rain during night , broke camp 08:15 central time and came to NT border soon after , and noticed signs defaced with what looks like Japanese characters and motorbike sketch drawn with texta  with a  recent date.(take note of this - this guy mentioned again) .  

Road has improved , and we go past Docker river and onto Lasseter's cave , stop here and look around , then discover my Pajero has blown the front seal on transfer case. So my friend Rick (a mechanical foreman at work) attacks the job with gusto . We cannot fix seal here , but on checking gearbox oil levels he informs me that both filler and drain plugs have not been removed for a long time - strange when you consider I paid a workshop in Pinjarra to change the oil in gearbox and transfer case prior to trip!!

While at Lasseter's cave the same group of special people arrived , and checked the place out. We left and a few hours later the dirt ended , we were on bitumen at the Olgas … what a difference . We ate lunch in the car park at the Olgas - what a view . Then drove onto Ayres rock car park . Rick and Steve climbed the rock , I walked around it with John … I used him as the excuse . While there , the special people arrived … good on em ! They looked to be more together than some of the tourists . Some of these tourists are looking at us funny , I cannot work it out , then Steve points out we haven't had a shower or shave in a week .

Left the rock , passed by toll gate (don't have to pay - cause we are going , not coming) anyway you can get out of paying by saying you are not visiting the rock - you are going to W.A via central road. Fuelled up at Yulara and rang the missus - sounds great , signed off Police travel book  , on the road again we camp 40 kms east of Yulara .Looking around we note some very large bull ant nests ….. hmmm .

After some discussion we decide we will separate in the morning , Rick and I will head straight for the Alice to repair transfer case seal , Steve & John will go onto Chambers Pillar  and Kings Canyon - we will meet in a few days at Ricks friends place in Alice , if they are not at Ricks friends by Sunday - we will head to Chambers Pillar to look for them.

Day 8    Thursday 06/08/1992

         Broke camp 08:08 hrs - gave Steve most of our water , farewelled them at Wallara ranch turnoff and headed for Alice . Stopped at Henbury & looked at meteorite craters , noted Pajero is missing badly under load (suspect fuel filter) .

Got into Alice and had a pie at Todd River, locals look a little untidy, but I suppose I do too. Went to Kittle bros Mitsubishi - they haven't got a seal but will air-freight one up from Adelaide tomorrow , got a fuel filter and went to Rick's mates place (Perry) . Replaced fuel filter & removed damaged seal , and then had a shower !!!  

Gave last bit of Brenda's corned beef roast to Perry's dog - it had served us well. Had a barbecue , a few beers and slept in swag on shed floor till the neighbours rooster started crowing at 03:30 hrs.

Day 9     Friday  07/08/1992

         The Olympics are on  - but have work to do - cleaned Engel and video camera , washed clothes , then walked into Alice , on the way checked out Kookaburra museum and Lasseter's  and Albert Namatjira's  graves . Saw Boucaut Street , phoned Brenda at farm from phone box , when I stepped outside I nearly bumped into the special people again.

Picked up seal and oil from Kittle bros (not bad eh?)  dropped the camera from the pushbike guy in for repair - back to Perry's place where Rick installed seal & filled up oil , took for a test run - perfect. Had tea at Riverside hotel - a seafood basket.

Day 10     Saturday 08/08/1992

         Went food shopping , Steve & John arrive lunchtime . Did a quick tour of Alice and Flynn's grave , packed Pajero , had tea at pub again .

Day 11    Sunday  09/08/1992

         Woke up to rooster , and then sizzling sound outside - Perry has bacon and eggs on barbecue - could get to like this bloke . We depart Perry's 08:10 hrs and head north .

Turn left , now onto Tanami track which is still bitumen for a while - making good speed . Stopped and had a wander around Mt Doreen station (later I read a "Hell west and crooked" by Tom Cole - the breaker) in which he mentions a mate of his marrying a Doreen and taking up a soldiers lease on the Tanami , between WW1 and WW2 - I suspect this is the spot . Whilst there we reflect a little on the dreams and hardships these people had .

Went past the Granites gold mine - huge - made camp off the road behind a small hill , warmer nights now - at night in the distance could see the night shift lights at gold mine , and to the west some lights in distance - probably Rabbit Flat.

Day 12    Monday 10/08/1992

         Broke camp 07:45 hrs , came to Rabbit Flat - didn't need fuel - left a little time later after swapping passengers  - past Tanami gold mine , then arrived at WA border , and on signs here is same Japanese characters , motorbike and dated several days prior to signs back on Gt Central rd - appears this gentleman is going opposite direction to us.

Depart border at 09:10 (WA time) , stop at Balgo turnoff and rescue one of Steve's driving lights which is hanging by its power wire . A tour 4*4 coach passes us as we are stretching our legs - we pass them doing the same an hour later . We stop for a FJ45 that has stopped on side of road - full of locals - broken wheel studs - the driver reckons the tyre shop in town put em on too tight with rattle gun - he is probably correct , they are okay and wave us on (another vehicle in their party had already left to get spares)

We arrive in Halls Creek - get some supplies , sign onto Police travellers register - rang Brenda , then headed back out on Tanami , made camp 50 kms out . Interesting country around Ruby plains - a donkey making noise out in scrub. Having trouble with video camera - it displays a symbol that I don't understand.

Day 13     Tuesday 11/08/1992

         A beautiful nights sleep , near full moon , stars , and Rick saw a satellite travelling sth to nth during the night … you cannot beat a swag in the open .

Broke camp 06:55 hrs , a warm morning  , and headed off - first stop Wolfe Creek crater  - when we get there we find 16 other vehicles already there - they had come up CSR with 4*4 Magazine .

The crater is spectacular - just sitting on the rim is awe inspiring . One bloke reckons symbol in video is moisture warning - so tried everything - changed tapes & leaving out of bag - no good.

Stopped at Carranya station - they report having problems with Aborigines , we filled tanks to top here (note this station no longer exists!)  .

Turned off Tanami onto CSR entrance at Billiluna and heading sth , corrugations very bad - with full load on board we have to be careful (Pajero is sitting on bump stops) . Eventually we are forced down to 18 km/hr , until corrugations ease .

                                

 Have lunch at Bloodwood bore , two other vehicles go past heading sth while we are eating . Weather is warming up too  , and we commence accurate map reading - country is not too bad , my thoughts go back to those lonely stockmen setting out on this long journey .

Track turns to cap rock , and soon after I have a blow out on RHR - a brand new (when I started trip) Goodyear Wrangler - big hole straight through tread and steel belts , so on with spare - gee it has warmed up as I notice my companions in the shade. Tyre pressures were front = 28 psi , rear = 42 psi .

Arrived well #50 - made camp west of well in clay pan , fitted tyre to rim - Steve helped … did not put spare on back door - put up on roof to lessen weight on rear of Pajero .

Day 14        Wednesday   12/08/1992

          Up at 05:45 after a beautiful night , full moon , no wind , broke camp at 07:05 hrs after rechecking tyre pressures , stopped at well 49 - site of first of graves - 'Boss drover Smith ' - murdered by natives in 1939 , poor bloke - a lonely place to die .

            

Messages in jars here from fellow travellers - listing their breakages!

A Victorian couple in a red Maverick fly past us, next along track were the Breaden Hills - reminds me of a John Wayne movie set , drove through talc like bull dust into Breaden Pool , only a dirty puddle in there . Passed by plaque commemorating Colonel Warburtons crossing in 1879 .

Made camp at well #41 - poor campsite , tuned into RFDS Pt Headland and transferred some fuel from Jerry cans to tank.

Encountered some bigger sand dunes today , only made 157 kms today .

Day 15         Thursday  13/08/1992

         Rose early to a beautiful sky - full moon going down and sun rising , we are 600 km from fuel drop , break camp 06:40 hrs and drive out to Gravity Lake for a look. A track continues across lake , we think this might be alternative route to well #46 . Went back to CSR and a little time later came to large dune with remains of motorcycle at bottom - took a few runs to get over (after lowering tyre pressures) several dunes in this section  - making hard work for vehicles - especially with loads .

A lot of traffic today , ten vehicles going the other way in three groups ,  said hello to them, heard from these more reports that CSR is flooded sth of well #9 (had already heard this from people on Gunbarrel) looks like we will have to exit at Glenayle station. Had lunch at well #43 , just a caved in soak really .

After lunch we crossed Guli lake and hit 3rd gear high range , Steve reports he has lost 5th gear in his cruiser (never regained till selector fixed back home) . Lots of big bones around well #42 when we arrive (camels ?) , is a depressing area - highest Salinity bore on CSR , met more vehicles - two FJ45's from Geraldton (one of these had broken RHF leaf springs chained up) .

 Made camp on side of track about 16 km nth of well #40. A cold night , RFDS reception poor … we only travelled 178 kms today.

Day 16      Friday   14/08/1992

          Up at 05:00 hrs, broke camp 06:45 and made first stop at well #40 and walked to Tobin's grave , another lonely place to die , but at least he has got a view . Drove across lake Tobin , a nice camp spot on sth side under desert oaks , but we kept on going  to well #39 - got some water & Steve had a wash , I saw no need ! A broken camel yoke here :outback camel co" from Hermannsburg travelling to Pt Headland. Left well #39 and encountered some big dunes - more air released from tyres to get over .

 Whilst waiting here I played with video camera , opened cassette door and give it a blow & symbol disappeared & camera worked (was dust symbol). Back onto track and then the two back bolts on sump bash plate snapped , had to stop and repair with one bolt and fencing wire (we brought some with us) , got going again at 10:55 hrs and took the east turn to well #38 , pretty rough going . Lots of small birds here - and getting warmer - had an hours rest after lunch then took new track out to well #37, lots of sand dunes .

 Met 'Spiderman' on this section , he does work for museum on desert spiders - he is on his 5th CSR trip (A mate of mine Robbie Gardiner met this bloke near Fitzroy Crossing several weeks later) .

Arrived well #37 (the haunted well) four graves here -  white and native stockmen . Departed 15:50 hrs , met more vehicles going nth and made camp in a stand of desert oaks , near Ural well , only 123 kms done today , transferred fuel and a few beers (of course).

Day 17       Saturday  15/08/1992

          Another nice moonlit night , broke camp 06:55 and onto well #36 , then went the 'old' way to Kidson track , and because going got a bit firmer we reinflated tyres - corrugations were very bad . We met up with a Maverick tray back , complete with freezer - a couple of blokes well set up , one of them is owner of Chinchilla pub in Queensland, he mentioned he saw the push bike rider we saw on Gunbarrel  at Giles .

 Had lunch at well #33 , then onto #32 - snake country - didn't stay but took short cut to #31 - then onto bad section of track - due to a fire several months ago all scrub had gone and sand had blown away and exposed cap rock … very slow through here - then made camp at #30 , a nice spot.

After tea were sitting back with a few beers when a party of Landcruiser troop carriers arrive , they are retracing steps of the ill - fated Calvert expedition from Wiluna to Fitzroy Crossing.

Travelled 186 kms today .

Day 18       Sunday   16/08/1992

         Broke camp at 06:45 and travelled to Munjingerra well (cave) , Had a quick explore - Steve & Rick went all the way , but the sight of a dirty great arachnid was enough to stop me from going past the first cavern. Continued on past several wells - termites have just about eaten all the timbers , met a tour group that confirm CSR is flooded from well #9 to Cunyu station … I had already seen some of that country when I was at Cunyu a year or so previous .

Looked at the restored well #26 - a credit to the restorers - drew some water for a scrub , then left , and into more dunes , were looking for a campsite so hurrying along , and due to operator error (read laziness) I got bogged atop a large dune - got out with my bull bag .

                              

 We then ran out of daylight and had to settle for a camp on an open exposed clay pan  , wasn't too bad as there was some wood for a fire  , but then the wind came up . Country was open and flat for miles , during the night I had to get up , and noted a light well to the sth .

Travelled 177 kms today.

Day 19      Monday  16/08/1992

         Have to do some work on vehicles - Steve's cruiser is missing badly under load , and Pajero has developed a vibration - I suspect gearbox bash plate has been pushed onto gearbox , was correct , so took it off and panel beat it back into shape with back of axe. Listed to RFDS whilst repairs were done , then break camp 08:30 and pass turn off to Windy Corner Jn 5 minutes later , arrive #24 at 09:00 , freezing cold wind , but looks a good campsite.

 Then onto fuel dump near #23 and locate our drums - two out  of 130. Used hand pump and took all fuel on board - everything full again. It was here the other members presented me with a token - no doubt due to my outstanding leadership , but why were they laughing ?

                    

Left fuel dump at 11:00 hrs - back onto bad corrugations and then came upon several thousand core samples stacked alongside track - for a few hundred metres . One of Jerry cans started to leak - so transferred as much as two vehicles would take and tipped rest out. Steve's cruiser still missing and unburnt fuel when working hard up dunes.

Looking for camp site , almost found a good one but others already there , so respected privacy and kept going till 57 km sth of #22 and camped . Is freezing , RFDS VKJ (Meekatharra) report only 12' max that day .

Also tune into Pt Augusta for news Did 116 km today .Once it was dark we started Steve's cruiser and could see 'tracking' on several spark plug leads - so replaced them.

Day 20       Tuesday  17/08/1992

          Very cold night , but protected a bit by dune , hot breakfast again , listened to RFDS and Cunyu report CSR will be impassable for months , we break camp at 07:15 and travel with windows closed and heaters on , gee its cold . Steve's cruiser still missing despite last nights effort - replace another lead , and clean points again - fuel filter had already been checked okay.

 Drove around western edge of Lake Disappointment and crossed Savoury Creek at a dry spot and proceeded onto Killigurra Gorge and then Durba Springs , where there were already four other vehicles camped up. Beautiful spot , would like to spend a few days here , but we haven't got the time (we work for a living). Went for a climb up to top of plateau , is very interesting country - checked names of stockmen and WW2 military surveyors on rock wall above pool . We hunt up some wood a have a good fire going and settle down .

 During the night I wake up to the sound of two jets going overhead , can't tell which direction , but they weren't too high up by the sound. Did 122 kms.

Day 21       Wednesday 18/08/1992

         Break camp 06:50 - after using drop toilet erected by Landrover car club , and head off again as we have to be home in a few days , spotted a dingo trotting on track - took too long to get rifle out (do gooders will be down on me , but I have spent time on sheep stations and have seen what dingos ,and dogs do).

Went past Murray Rankin's cart , and met a troopie on crest - just as well we had our flag up ! Cruiser still missing under load - we can't seem to fix this (it went away of its own accord when Steve got home).

Checked grave of stockman at #15 and depart at 11:00 hrs , track improving - apart for corrugated sections and make camp east of White Lake , 9kms nth of #11 as losing daylight. Did 176 kms.

Day 22      Thursday  19/08/1992

          Awoke 06:40 , this will be our last day on CSR , and we are all feeling a bit sad that this adventure is coming to an end, but happy to be going home as well  , listen to RFDS roll call and break camp at 07:10 hrs , track improving all the time .

After a few kms we round a bend and there is a motor bike and tent on side of track , we slow and a Japanese bloke waves from his tent flap so we keep going onto #11 - full of rotten budgies . Then we spot our first Kangaroo for the whole trip - since we left home !

Had a look in well #10 (deep) and then we arrive at #9 , where we have to turn off the CSR .

We stop for awhile and check out Forrest's stone fort , whilst inspecting area I notice some graffiti on the signs  that looks familiar ! Sure enough it is Japanese Characters , motorbike sketch and yesterdays date .

The Bloke back in his tent was the graffiti artist we kept seeing , I suggested going back to speak to him , but the others vetoed this .

We left CSR onto Glenayle station - and up into 4th and then 5th gears (not the cruiser though).We pass a lot of vehicles heading for CSR - everyone waving .Stopped at Glenayle to pay the fee for use of track , but no one home - knocked on several doors - couldn't find an honour box , or anything to leave money in , so we left …. Have no problem paying for luxury of their good tracks .

Now onto road to Wiluna and making good time - Steve finds his roof rack has cracked , so load shifted around .

Pulled into Wiluna in late afternoon , reported to Police station and signed off travellers register  , then straight to pub for a carton of beer - had been on rations for last couple of nights.

Left Wiluna via road to Sandstone , made camp not far from Yeelerie . Last night away from home.

Distance we covered on CSR was 1993 kms .

Day 23    Friday  20/08/1992

          Up early 05:00 hrs - too cold to stay in swag  , wash up water is frozen and ice over swags & cars , lit fire and had breakfast , broke camp 07:15 hrs , took a wrong turn and ended up at station hsd , got directions and was informed it was minus 1'c last night - no wonder we were cold .

There were road closed signs , but the bloke at the station said to ignore them - the shire was taking them down . Were making good time when 60 km from Sandstone the RHR tyre blew out - totally destroyed , put spare on & went on to town , mounted tyre on rim there .

 Dropped rubbish at town tip , then drove out to the old brewery and 'London Bridge' for a look , then headed towards Paynes Find .. road deteriorating the further we went - water over road and getting softer , 'rivers' of sand washed across road and wildlife on road - Emus , Kangaroos & snakes . It took us 4.5 hrs to do this section .

We finally arrived in Paynes Find - went to roadhouse for steak and chips etc . We must have looked a sight - a months stubble , dirty clothes , no shower since Alice Springs , wearing our Drizabones and hats , indeed a woman muttered "It looks like the posse just rode in". We found out the roads were closed !

After dinner we headed straight home - I had enough fuel with me to get all the way home - and still had half a tank - I arrived home 22:50 hrs after dropping Rick off at his place .

                      What an excellent trip.

                 The Posse !