Boucaut and Baird Trip, 1999.
The Boucauts = Don and Brenda, married 26 years have three grown up children (that stayed home), travelling in their 1995 GQ DX Patrol, 4.2 litre diesel, towing Cavalier off road deluxe camper trailer.
The Bairds = Graham and Sandra, likewise married with 4 grown up sons(who also stayed home), in their 1988 HJ62 diesel Landcruiser, towing an off road camper trailer built in Mandurah.
Day 1, we had arranged to meet the Bairds at the Premier hotel car park in Pinjarra at 06:00 hrs, they rolled up a few minutes later and after a few hello’s we were off on this adventure.
Our plans were to go across to Alice Springs via Great Central Road, to Darwin and Kakadu, then the Gibb River Road and Mitchell falls, before turning for home (who wouldn’t be happy!).
The weather was cold and damp and dark as we drove over the Darling Scarp, through Dwellingup on to Williams where we stopped at the roadhouse for the mandatory ‘first day breakfast’ of bacon, eggs, toast and coffee, a little expensive but not too bad.
After breakfast it was on the road again, heading towards Hyden to see Wave Rock, which we did … quite a nice spot. Had a bit of a walk around & checked out Hippo’s Yawn as well (another rock feature) weather had fined up by now, it was nice and sunny around Hyden.
Drove out from Wave Rock, heading east again, now onto gravel/dirt, and cracked a beer (cause of the dust) looking for the ‘Holland Track ‘ turnoff, which we missed (talking too much on CB’s etc) and eventually turned onto the Queen Victoria Rd towards Coolgardie, and made camp off the road in amongst some tall trees, in a clearing.
Got the gas stoves out and wives cooked a nice meal despite the men’s help, and then settled in – the first night was a swim through.
Day 2, woke up and broke camp (after breakfast) and onto track, which was muddy in places, but no trouble really, is interesting country through here, a couple of vehicles going the other way, then we get into Coolgardie and fuel up.
We stop out of Coolgardie for morning tea on side of the road, some more videoing and then onto Kalgoorlie. Have a look around and then out northeast towards Leonora, but turn off the highway after Menzies, heading for Niagara Dam and Kookynie. Brenda and I had been to here before with Melissa, and had suggested the Bairds might like to view it as well. Checked out the dam it, was a forerunner to Mundaring Weir (same design but smaller) – water was lower than last time, and stank a bit, then drove into the remains of Kookynie, a virtual ghost town. Had a beer in the pub and visited the museum they have operating. Its surprising how many people once lived in these gold towns, over ten thousand here, and in the old photos you can see.
Left Kookynie and met bitumen road east of Leonora, looks like thunderstorms in front of us – towards the east. We make camp half way between Leonora and Laverton – well off the road and set up camp a little early as weather is looking menacing. Have a nice meal (again) including some hot chips deep fried in camp over, just in time as storm breaks over us, but snug in our campers. The rain stops shortly afterwards.
Day 3 Had breakfast, and drive on, turn off the bitumen short of Laverton and onto the Great Central Rd, we have all been on this road before in our travels, but it is still interesting. Road is in good condition, with only relatively short stretches of corrugations. Water across the road in a couple of spots, and we stop a few times to chat … range on CB’s is not as good as I expected – will have to improve these.
Fuel up at Tjukajira Roadhouse, and make camp east of that, halfway to Warburton. Cold night. Graham had to go back a way, lost a water container (which he found okay). We had good discussions tonight about the stars (don’t you always) and went to bed, and slept well.
Day 4 Had a flat tyre on my Patrol RHR –a slow leak I think, changed and put spare on with Grahams help, then onto the track – eastwards, always eastwards.
Top up fuel at Warburton, after which we get stuck behind a lone bull camel, which will not let us past, which prompts Grahams famous “c’mon Don, we are only travelling at a camels pace “ over the CB (you had to be there I suppose). Camp up short of Giles.
Day 5 Eastwards we go again, past Giles and Warrakuna roadhouse and Lasseter’s Grave (we have already seen these things) and strike bitumen near the Olgas, and turn right and head towards the Stuart Hwy. On the way we see Ayers Rock (again) – still fascinating.
Pushing into a headwind prior to the highway, knocks our speed down a bit.
At the hwy we turn north towards Alice, but realising we will not find a spot close to town to camp, we head off the hwy and make camp at Rainbow Valley. Great spot, with toilets and view, but Graham has picked up a bug, and is feeling crook (can’t even have a beer). He is a little better in the morning, but an old injury to his elbow has flared up. Sandy is going to get some tablets for him in Alice.
Day 6 Head into Alice for supplies and medicine, leave after that and head north, have a meal at river 20 kms north of Alice, then move on and set up camp right at base of Devils Marbles (east side). Settle down and relax with a barbecue on the stove, and a few beers. People climbing over the rocks, doesn’t appeal to us, just stretching out and enjoying the view.
Of course up early for the rising sun on the rocks!
Day 7 Leave the marbles and head north again, stop at a few sights on the way – Three Ways, Flynn Memorial, Stuart Memorial, and drive into Daly Waters airfield for a look (me mates elbow still swollen). See the biggest Bungarra we have ever seen on track into airfield.
Drive past Daly Waters pub – then backtrack to hwy to camp at caravan park, realise later we should have camped at Daly Waters pub for a few days – nice spot, will be back here.
Day 8 Travel back to Daly pub and have a good look around inside, great memorabilia, including stuff from other travellers, so I leave my miners pass stapled to post at bar. Brenda wants a beer, but at 09:30 in the morning it is a little early.
A bloke pulls up with a ute – in the back he has Turk (his big dog) – shade set up for the dog etc. On the way out we pass an old local bloke driving a car with no doors.
Onto the Stuart hwy and heading north once again, heading for Mataranka, which we reach okay, and notice weather has warmed considerably.
Walk to the thermal springs to the raucous sounds of fruit bats in the palms, they have made a mess everywhere, and there are signs advising against swimming as water is polluted by them. Brenda cops a ‘strike’ by one the fruit bats, and after awhile we go, cause it is a bit noisy and stinks.
The Elsey replica home is our next stop, still being cleaned up after the record floods through this area recently, have a wander around with cameras etc.. The old washtubs look very familiar to us – I think all our generation would remember these from when we were kids.
Head off to Katherine and book into the Low Level caravan park for a couple of days rest, on the way have a blow out – RHR again.
Day 9 Slow day, see the sights of Katherine, resupply, rest, do some washing, drink. Interesting to see the recent flood level in the townsite – its difficult for us to visualise that much water.
A small bungarra wanders through park grounds and provides a bit of entertainment.
Got my tyre repaired in town.
Day 10 Out to Katherine Gorge, Graham and Sandy decide to do the boat cruise, Brenda and I opt for the chopper flight (we took one of these a year before over Kings Canyon and are hooked), so after a short wait we are airborne and pass over the Gorge, and the boats below.
A good flight, good views and it gives an understanding of the country around the Gorge.
After the flight we have a bacon and egg burger from the shop – eat it on the veranda overlooking the river.
We had arranged to meet Graham and Sandy further up the road towards our next destination – Litchfield Park (where we planned to stay three or four days) they duly catch up and we head into the Park and camp at the Banyan Tree Camp/Caravan grounds.
Day 11, spent sight seeing, check out the termite mounds, the Lost City and the waterfalls, good country – back at camp for a few beers.
Day 12, more sightseeing, some washing, some drinkin’.
Day 13 Time to leave, we drive out to Rum Jungle and drive around the old mine, when a bloke waves us down and tells us we are not allowed in here, he had left the gate open by mistake, so we left, head back to Stuart Hwy and north to Darwin, set up in The Palms caravan park (a good one).
Day 14 Sightseeing in Darwin, it’s a clean looking city, went into town, walked around the Mall and did some shopping, then after lunch we had a look at the aviation museum.
Day 15 Had a look in the Cutta Cutta caves and then took the seaplane flight over Darwin and the harbour, good trip – taking off and landing on the water in a DeHaviland Beaver, its different.
Day 16 Had a lunch on the boardwalk at the sailing club, a bit of class – a wine with the food, could get used to this. Then had a look at the gun batteries and the military museum there, and some more shopping at Casuarina.
Day 17 Fanny Bay prison took most of the morning, then fish and chips on the beach watching the sun set, rang daughter from mobile as sun disappeared, a magic moment.
Day 18, on the road again (as Willie Nelson sang) heading for Kakadu, interesting going across the Adelaide River floodplains on the Arnhem Hwy (one of my ancestors is buried on the coast – was with the Finniss party), into country that Tom Cole wrote about (in his excellent book “Hell West and Crooked”).
Stopped at the Bark Hut Inn, and was offered a cheap entrance ticket to Kakadu by another traveller, didn’t understand the value of his offer and knocked it back – silly move.
So into Kakadu we went, and paid the entrance fee (to something my taxes already pay for) and set up camp at Jabiru – Holiday Village, which was a little over priced for unpowered sites, I thought.
Day 19, Checked out Jabiru, and took plane flight over escarpment, we did the one hour trip which was probably a bit too long, but still a good look see. Part of flight was over the Jabiluka mine.
Day 20 – travelling again, cause we are keen to get to the Kimberley’s, I know why they call it Kakadon’t – Litchfield and the Kimberley’s are better. After a few hours Brenda had a migraine (unusual) and then another migraine, she was not too well, by this time we were near Pine Creek.
Kept on going through Katherine, and when we got to Timber Creek I got a unit for the two of us, instead of setting camper up. Brenda soaked in hot bath for an hour and was asleep early.
I was pleasantly surprised at units in timber creek caravan park (behind tavern) – reasonably modern and very clean and tidy, and well priced. Area around Timber creek looks interesting – Gregory National Park deserves a visit – another trip!
Day 21 Brenda seems recovered next morning, looks a bit fresher than Graham who stayed too long in the tavern last night. Graham and Sandy take off and I drive a little slower, in respect for Brenda. Catch the Bairds at the turnoff to Lake Argyle after disposing of our fruit –(and honey that was unopened – don’t know how that works) at the border into W.A.
Scenery on the drive into Lake Argyle is spectacular - set up at the campground, not bad.
Day 22 Graham and Sandy decided to take the boat cruise, Brenda and I opted for a quiet day, resting around camp – some washing done and dried. Had lunch at the little restaurant – fish was good, then tried fishing below dam wall – didn’t get any, but could see them swimming around my lures and bait.
Had a look at the Durack Homestead, saved from the rising waters of lake Argyle and rebuilt at its present location. Spent a couple of pleasant hours here – some of the gear is very familiar. Brenda got a souvenir here.
Back to camp and a couple of beers.
Day 23 – pack up and head off towards Kununurra, camp in caravan park and do some shopping, check out Ivanhoe crossing – didn’t bother crossing – as water was deep, and see no need.
Lots of birds flying around the cane crops – getting insects no doubt that were disturbed by harvesting.
Visited Hidden Valley, didn’t go far though, feeling a little tired, had lunch at the entrance and Brenda picked up another souvenir.
Day 24 Pack up and head west for the Gibb River Rd, back on the dirt and into the Kimberly. Stop off at Emma Gorge and walk up to the droplet gorge/pool – which I rate as one of the prettiest places I have ever been (then again I haven’t been to many places). Very hot, but standing under the droplets is refreshing, looking up to see the ferns growing down the walls – yep a beaut place.
Brenda tempted to have a beer at the resort style tavern, but I won’t let her, some accommodation here as well, but expensive.
Drove into El Questro, which everyone has heard about – didn’t go to the top market lodge, instead camped on rivers edge – in the campground – so we can utilise showers etc. Probably would have been better further along – in the more secluded sites. Overall I wasn’t overly impressed with El Questro – a bit yuppie-ish and fairly crowded.
Day 25 Left El Questro and stopped at Zebedee springs , wallowed in the water for a while , is a nice spot – had trouble dragging Sandy away .
Gibb River Rd was not too bad , corrugations and rocks were okay , ranges to the north accompany us till we come to the Pentecost River and set up camp a couple of hundred metres downstream from the crossing . As we are going to stay a few days we put up the annexes as well – nice spot 40 metres up from rivers edge under some trees , in sight of crossing . Time to relax.
Out comes the fishing gear (may as well have left it packed – didn’t catch much – couple of catfish and baby Barramundi). Bloke camped 200 metres downstream from us caught a nice size barra – we think it was the last one in the river.
Day 26 Resting and doing some washing , tried fishing again – not much good , a few beers in the afternoon .Its good to stretch back and relax.
Day 27 A busy night – was woken about 22:00 hrs by a whooomp noise and camper lit up – it was a group of locals throwing petrol on a fire to get it going . They were okay after a while though .
Then at 01:30 hrs Brenda woke me – she had been bitten on the hand by something – then I saw it climbing the inside of the camper wall – the biggest centipede I have ever seen – killed it and threw it out .
Went to Graham and Sandy’s to ask for advice about bite …. Poor Brenda was feeling a bit sick from the bites.
In the morning , the locals (a family group) asked me to keep an eye on their gear as they were going downstream to fish – so this spot wasn’t any good eh?
Another quiet day – will be leaving tomorrow , heading for Mitchell Falls – expect to take two days to reach them.
Day 28 On the road after breakfast , crossed the Pentecost , stopped and had a look back over the Pentecost valley from the top of the ranges – excellent view .
Stopped at Jacks Waterhole – nothing special .
Turned right (north) at Kalumburu turnoff , road deteriorated a little as we went through a few shallow creek crossings ,eventually went into Drysdale river station and refuelled and made use of their rubbish tip .
Phoned home from the phone in the fridge and were told that Brenda’s pony Dallas had to be put down (cancer) , which cast a pall of sadness over us. Left Drysdale and drove straight into Miners Pool – liked the look so we camped up. Put the Cherabin trap in (after being menaced by a large water monitor) – retired to camp for a beer.
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Day 29 Up and checked the trap in the morning – only one Cherabin , which I gave to a kid about 10 years old who was fishing there . Ten minutes later he ran past us , up to his family , holding a nice sized sooty grunter he had caught on this new bait that the “old man over there” had given him!
Day 30 On the road , shallow crossing on the Drysdale then further on the road is worse – a bit wet and rutted , but no problems , apart for vehicles getting dirty. A few more crossings and then turn off on the track to Mitchell Falls.
Track is very rough and slow , with corrugations and rocks – so take it easy . Before we get to the river crossing we hit a stretch of several hundred metres that is under water , don’t much like the look of this as could get stuck with the campers on , but I drive in with Graham watching , make it through the worst part , so we keep going and water ends around the bend – ground was firm underneath (rocks).
Stop at the river – a bit worried as its deep and flowing fast , I walk the crossing and note two big holes to avoid – water is up to my crotch , about headlights on the Patrol – as I don’t have a snorkel am a bit reluctant – then a group in troopies come up behind us , have a look and go through , so we follow and make it no problems.
Remainder of track is corrugated until we drop down to the Falls camp ground – a bit wet on the black soil here – and the grass is nearly roof high. Find a spot and camp up . Get some fresh water from creek behind us and talk with rangers – they have just set up for first time and are constructing a new access track in.
Spot the Jet Ranger chopper and make booking for the four of us in the morning.
Day 31 a terrific flight over Mitchell Falls , great views of countryside and Mitchell River towards coast at Port Warrender , can really get an understanding of plateau and river channels from up in the air .
Break camp when we get back and head back on rough track , stop up on the plateau and have morning tea , admiring view towards east , at the edge of plateau . Make camp at Miners Pool again.
Day 32 Back onto GRR and a few crossings then over King Leopold Ranges and stop for lunch at Queen Victoria Head – which Sandy missed .
Cannot be bothered with any of the gorges now – seen plenty of these in Litchfield etc so head off for Derby. Arrive in Derby but Graham doesn’t follow – we wait a while then turn back and meet them coming off GRR – their camper trailer has spring hanger torn out of chassis (no compensation plate welded to chassis when constructed).
Set up camp in caravan park – with view across flats to sea, and a beautiful sunset.
A couple of pilots come wandering through campgrounds – looking for two passengers to fill their second light plane for a flight tomorrow to Cape Leveque and lunch – we decline , until they offer it to us for half price , Brenda & I accept.
Day 33 Graham & Sandy depack their camper and Graham takes it for repairs – we abandon Sandy and go to airport for our flight …. It was great , across King Sound , the horizontal falls , Koolan Island and the Buccaneer Archipelago and onto dirt strip at Cape Leveque .
Met by a young aboriginal guide , she gave a very good talk on the way to the restaurant overlooking the beach – then into a beaut meal , fish , fresh salad , fresh buns , squeezed orange juice etc , then a stroll along the beach for an hour .
Back on the plane and fly back to Derby via King sound.
Tea that night was Barramundi and chips from shop near the wharf …. A top day .
Graham And Sandy want to stay in Derby and Broome for a few days , whilst Brenda and I are keen to catch up with our friends at Karratha and Paraburdoo , so we decide to say goodbye to each other tonight – Brenda and I will leave early in the morning.
Day 34 We sprint to Karratha to surprise our friends – only to be surprised ourselves – they are down in Perth , so we set up camper at caravan park – ring Paraburdoo and find our other friends aren’t home either – they are at Coral Bay , so we will go there tomorrow.
Day 35 Off to Coral Bay – arrive and set up camper in campgrounds & surprise Glen & Melissa – have a feed of freshly caught Red Emperor (thanks Glen) and a few drinks .
Day 36 Morning spent on the beach – resting , then back to camp and a few beers after lunch , Melissa joins us for a few more , then Brenda and I have a few more , then I don’t know what happened .
Day 37 Woke to threatening skies , so packed up – we are about ready to head home I think , say goodbye to our mates and head homewards .
The rain caught up with us before we got to Minilya , and kept raining for a few hours (Highway was closed for a while after us) .
Stop for Red Rooster in Geraldton (this has become a ritual for us now) and arrive back in Pinjarra at 19:30 hrs – get some more takeaway and go home .
What a great holiday , saw a lot , had some laughs , good company etc .
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